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<div>Been lurking a lot lately, serious condolences to all the family and friends of Pat Dill, and many prayers are being said for Sandi’s courage and strength as Aunti Pat’s health declines. One could only hope to have a friend like Sandi! We are praying
for all of you who have lost beloved friends, relatives, and fur-kids.</div>
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<div>Now on to the walk: I NEVER use those stupid flexi leads. They are dangerous and I believe they are irresponsible. You cannot keep your dog under control using them and you can’t protect them from attack when they are that far away from you. The ONLY
time I would ever use one is on a very slow dog with arthritis in their neck, and only when walking them alone, OR when doing tracking exercises and the dog needs to be some distance away from you<font face="SimSun">.</font></div>
<div>Dogs should always be kept at your side so that they are safe and so you are safe. Watch the Dog Whisperer! I have successfully walked 4 dogs at once this way, and commonly walk 3 bassets. Simple rope leash, high up on their neck. Control the nose
and you control the dog. You have to train them one at a time though, then add dogs and match energy levels and speed. Some dogs are trained to be on the right and some on the left. Some prefer to be further away from you and some closer. Match them accordingly<font face="SimSun">.</font>
The key with MY dogs is to walk fast enough to keep them focused on the walk. When elderly Clover (ATB) went with us, Rocky would match his pace to hers. With Brutus, he always resented her frequent pee stops, so I didn’t walk them together very often. She
would start out really well, but didn’t finish well as her shoulders were sore. Never wanted to turn around before she was tired either. The walk home just got slower and slower because I couldn’t carry a 65 lb dog home. </div>
<div>My advice is that you throw away any flexi leads you own. Just get rid of them! Go to the dollar store and buy a round rope leash (COTTON not nylon, nylon can really burn your hand if yanked)<font face="SimSun">,</font> fit it properly to your dog’s
neck, then slide the clip out just far enough to slide it off over their head. Now tie a knot in the leash just outside that point. This prevents the clip from sliding so far that the dog can walk out of the leash, but still allows you to put it on or off
without undoing the clip or interfering with the slide action needed to keep the leash up high or offer a correction. Clip goes INSIDE the loop from the knot, not OUTSIDE the knot. If you have clipped between the knot and the handle you have done it wrong.
My knot usually ends up about 18-20inches or so from the clip so the loop fits over their head but doesn’t get any larger. The idea is to prevent it from slipping off if you lose focus. You will get more exercise during the training period because you should
walk each dog separately until they get the idea of staying with you. Just keep moving forward, don’t fight, don’t allow them to lose focus. You have to walk fast enough that they are keeping up with YOU, not the other way around. Big reward at the end of
the walk. Now start over with the next hound. Mine go for about 3 miles with 2 potty stops. We move quickly, and I don’t feel guilty for not letting them sniff every few feet. It helps that I can walk in the middle of a dirt road with little traffic, because
few dogs ever pee in the middle of a road. I do have one dog who has to poop about 5 minutes into the walk, but he is consistent about having to go, and we allow for that. Otherwise we walk for at least 15 min then have a potty break, then walk for a half
hour or more, then potty again, then finish the walk.</div>
<div>Good luck with walking! Think of it as a migration exercise with your dog. It is natural and healthy for them to do it!</div>
<div>Gaylene</div>
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