[Dailydrool] Breeding - How does it work with Basset hounds? -- Serious Response

Sandi Wittenberg sandi at redbaybassets.com
Sun Jan 10 21:10:32 PST 2010


We have been breeding bassets for over 20 years.  Breeding is not something
to be undertaken lightly.  There are some things you should consider even
before you do the breeding:

 

First, you should try to be as objective as possible in evaluating your
bitch.  

.         Is she truly of breeding quality?  

.         Is she free of the major hereditary health problems found in
bassets:  glaucoma, bleeding disorders, hip and elbow dysplasia? 

.         Has she been tested for these disorders?

.         Are you familiar with the dogs in at least 3 generations behind
her?  

.         Are they free of hereditary health problems?  

.         Is she in good health herself?  

.         Is she free of parasites, skin disorders, allergies, joint
problems?  

.         Is she at least 2 years old but not more than 5 years old (for a
first litter)?  

.         Is her temperament wonderful?  No shyness?  No fearfulness?  No
aggression??  

.         Has she been titled in conformation, obedience, tracking, field
work?

.         Finally, is she a good representative of the breed?  

 

There are many many homeless basset hounds in the world.  Those who
reproduce should really be only of the best quality.

 

Next, are you prepared for the potential expense of producing a litter?  

.         Pre-breeding testing: for the bitch to be sure she is healthy,
sound and free of parasites.  A brucellosis test will likely be required by
the owner of the stud.  Some may also require testing for bleeding
disorders, glaucoma, x-rays, etc.

.         Stud Fees:   Stud fees are typically $1000 or more, with the owner
of the bitch being responsible for all transportation and medical costs.
Stud fees are non-refundable.  Most reputable breeders will not allow their
studs to be used with un-titled bitches and require assessment of the
quality of the bitch before agreeing to breeding.  

.         Whelping supplies:  You will need to equip your "delivery room"
and "nursery".  At a minimum you will need a good sturdy whelping box (about
$210 to buy.  You can build one for about $50), a heat source (heat lamp or
better yet a whelp nest [about $250] or heat pad [about $65 plus $25 for a
rheostat]), scale ($30), miscellaneous scissors, clamps, sterile gloves,
dental floss, betadine, towels, etc., and later a puppy enclosure such as an
exercise pen ($80 and up).  Don't forget you will need to have a place in
the house for all of this to occur.

.         Vet bills:  At very least, you will need to get mother and babies
in for a check-up and clean-out shot within 24 hours of the birth.  Then,
the puppies will each need vaccinations about every 3 weeks, beginning at
about 6 weeks.  They will probably need to be wormed several times.  Should
problems occur (and they often do) the costs go up dramatically.  It is not
unusual for bassets to require c-sections, often in the middle of the night
when emergency fees apply.  Should puppies become ill, there are costs of
medication, oxygen, and vet check-ups.  I have had litters that were to the
vet almost daily for over a week because of problems.  Mom can develop
infections and require additional vet care and medication.  I have had vet
bills approaching $1,500 from a litter, not counting routine visits and
vaccine!  Moms often do not have adequate milk and formula is needed (at $17
and up for a large can) plus bottles and/or feeding tubes.

.         Advertising:  A first-time breeder will not have the reputation
that brings buyers.  Some form of advertising will likely be necessary.

.         Dog Food:  They start the weaning process at about 3 weeks.  By
the time they go to their new homes at 14 weeks of age, puppies go through
an astounding amount of Puppy Chow!!  And basset mothers are very finicky
eaters.  You will likely need to prepare fancy special concoctions to get
her to eat.

 

Next comes the problem of actually accomplishing the breeding.  

Bassets often require assistance and this is not always easy.  First, you
need to know when to do the breeding.  An experienced male will be able to
"tell" you most of the time.  An inexperienced male will be too excited from
almost day one and useless as an indicator.  You will be best off having
your vet do a series of vaginal swabs and slides to check for signs of
nearing ovulation.  Or your vet can do progesterone testing to pinpoint the
best day to breed.  This is usually on about day 11 - 15, but there is a
great deal of variation. Once you know the correct day, you need to get them
to "do the deed".  I have been breeding bassets for over 20 years.  I have
had ONE male who could breed a bitch unassisted.  Don't count on it.  We
have used AI for ALL our breedings for the last 20 or so years.  Most of my
friends with bassets do the same.

 

However, you might be lucky, so here's what to try.  This works best with 2
people but can be done alone.  One method is to sit on the floor with your
legs straight out with the female standing across your lap, head to the
left, tail to the right.  You can then use your legs to support her and to
raise or lower her rear as needed.  Have an assistant hold the girl's head
and steady her.  Encourage the male to come over and investigate.  If you
are lucky, he will do so, and even locate the right end of the girl.  as he
mounts her, use your left hand to cup the girls vulva, providing a guide for
the male.  You may need to assist him in finding the target.  Bear in mind
that he's not going to like you messing with his equipment, so if he hasn't
been trained to allow this, he might get argumentative.  If you can manage
to get him to hit the target, you might need to give his butt a shove
towards the girl to assist in full penetration.  He will likely climb up on
your leg to get better leverage. If you are fortunate to get a tie, the two
will become stuck together for 5 - 60 minutes. If not, you will need to hold
him inside her - this is very hard and very tiring.  If they do get a tie,
don't let them struggle. Calmly assist the male in lifting his rear leg over
the girl so they are standing butt to butt and keep them quiet for the
duration of the tie.

 

If you are unsuccessful in getting the deed done, you will need to do
artificial insemination.  For this, at least the first few times, you should
get professional assistance from a reproduction expert or your veterinarian.

 

Now, you repeat this process every 2 days for as long as they will allow it.
You should be able to get 3 breedings this way.  Gestation period averages
63 days.  I have had puppies born on day 59 from the first breeding, day 67
from the last breeding, and everything in between.

 

Then you must be prepared for hundreds of hours of work.  

Basset hounds are not easy to raise.  The mothers are usually clumsy and can
easily lie on and smother puppies.  It is customary for the moms and puppies
to require CONSTANT supervision for the first 2 weeks.  This is 24 hours a
day, 7 days a week.  This is time off from work.  At our house, someone
sleeps next to the whelping box at night.  .During the day we take turns
staying home with the babies.  If supplemental feedings are needed, it means
getting up at least twice a night to bottle or tube feed puppies.  If
puppies are colicky it means holding them for hours and rubbing tummies.
After about 3 weeks when mom decides she has had enough of cleaning up after
them you will feel like all you do is change poopy puppy papers.  Once
weaned, puppies need to be fed 3-4 times a day.  They get filthy and need to
be cleaned up.  They need bedding laundered.  They need to be played with
and socialized.

 

Finally you must be prepared for unfathomable heartbreak.  

There are few things worse than watching a puppy die, gasping and crying.
And puppies do die.  At a seminar for breeders, we were told that on an
average, 30% of puppies die.  In 20 years of breeding, I have seen many
puppies die.  I have seen puppies born dead who cannot be revived. I have
seen monster puppies born.  I have seen puppies smothered by their mothers.
I have seen a whole litter die over a ten day period.  I have poured
hundreds of dollars and countless hours into saving a puppy, only to have it
die anyway.  I have had to have a puppy with a defect put to sleep.  We have
had a mother die three days after whelping, leaving us with eight hungry
mouths to feed and huge hole in our hearts.   Whenever we expect a litter, I
am sick to my stomach for weeks before they are due and usually for weeks
after they are born, because of worry and fear over what might happen.

 

Then there is the matter of homes.  

Do you have enough homes??  I believe that statistically, basset litters
average 6.8 puppies.  In my experience, I have had litters ranging from 1
puppy to 13.  I know a woman whose basset had 18 puppies and all of them
lived.  (Mom had no milk so all 18 had to be hand-raised!!)  If you have 10
or 12 puppies, are you prepared to keep and nurture each and every one of
them until you find them appropriate homes??

 

Please give this all some serious thought.  If you then feel you want to go
through with having a litter, get some good books on breeding and puppy
rearing.  I would especially recommend CARE OF THE BROOD BITCH AND WHELPING
(available from the BHCA Country Store on the BHCA web site), and Successful
Dog Breeding by Walkowic & Wilcox.

 

If you feel you are really ready to get into this, visit the Basset Hound
Club of America website for a listing of breeders in your area you can
contact.  Be aware they will want to be able to evaluate your girl - be
leery of anyone who says yes without asking questions.  

 

 

Sandi Wittenberg & The Red Bay Gang

Grady, Hoagie, Johnny, Norm & Opie

sandi at redbaybassets.com

 

 

 

 

 

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